How to get rid of rats yourself (and why it's riskier than for mice)
The Norway rat is bigger, smarter and warier than the mouse. Here's why DIY almost always fails and how to avoid leptospirosis transmission while trying.

You saw a rat in the yard. Or a 7-10 cm burrow near the foundation. Or capsule-shaped droppings in the basement. Here's why DIY against rats is even riskier than for mice — and how much time you waste before the situation gets out of control.
Neophobia: your worst enemy
Rats are wary of new objects in their environment (neophobia). You buy a rat trap at Canadian Tire, set it up. The rat walks past for 5-10 days without touching it. Meanwhile, its population keeps doubling every 2 months. A poorly placed trap will never catch anything.
Step 1: consumer traps
Consumer rat traps have two problems: (1) trigger sensitivity isn't calibrated for the Norway rat's weight (200-500 g), so the trap fires late and the rat survives injured, and (2) they're rarely big enough — an adult rat can be 25 cm long not counting tail.
Step 2: poison without a station
Dangerous. A poisoned rat takes 5-10 days to die and can do so anywhere — including at your neighbor's, on the street (where your dog or a raccoon may eat it), or in a wall (unbearable smell for 3 weeks). Anticoagulant rodenticides without a locked station are also a risk for pets.
Step 3: "I'll plug the burrow"
Very bad idea. Rat burrows almost always have multiple exits (3-7). Plugging one visible burrow = rats use the others and dig a new burrow elsewhere. You turn a localized problem into a yard-wide one.
The health risk no one mentions
Rats transmit: leptospirosis (via contact with urine, even dried), salmonella, rare hantavirus, and bites that can carry rabies. If you handle a dead rat, droppings, or burrow yourself, wear disposable gloves, N95 mask and disinfect with diluted bleach. Many homeowners skip this and end up at the ER.
Why rats are harder than mice
A rat is as smart as a dog — it learns from mistakes and watches other rats. If one rat in your colony is injured by a trap, others won't approach it for weeks. That's why a professional protocol uses trap rotation, multiple bait types simultaneously, and placement based on observed activity patterns.
The professional approach
Phase 1: inspection of exterior burrows and activity points. Phase 2: deployment of maximum-security tamper-proof bait stations (required in some commercial contexts) and industrial mechanical traps. Phase 3: follow-ups at 7 and 14 days for adjustment, then exclusion diagnosis — we hand you a report with every opening > 1.5 cm marked and a materials list (galvanized metal mesh, mortar) for you or your contractor to seal. Monthly follow-up available for businesses.
For businesses: it's urgent
Restaurants, daycares, food businesses: one documented rat = potential MAPAQ closure. The DIY cost isn't the product cost, it's your license cost. KZ Extermination 24/7 — discreet after-hours intervention on request.
Honest math
Traps: $60. Poison without station: $40. Health risk: high. Structural risk from gnawing: high. Commercial closure risk: catastrophic for food businesses. KZ intervention: $450-700 for a residential case, monthly commercial program starting at $200/mo. Read the client preparation guide below, then call immediately.
